HEMU GUIDE
A local guide to the mountains, seasons and village life of Hemu, in the Altay Mountains of northern Xinjiang, China.
01 / THE DESTINATION
Hemu Village is located in the Altay Mountains of northern Xinjiang, China, near the borders of Kazakhstan, Russia, and Mongolia. The village sits at approximately 1,100 m (3600 ft), with lift-accessed terrain ranging from 1,400 m (4500 ft) to 2,800 m (9000 ft), and surrounding backcountry routes extending from the valley floor to over 3,000 m.
Winter temperatures typically range from –10°C to –30°C, preserving a cold, dry continental snowpack throughout the season. Estimated winter snowfall: around 500 cm. By midwinter, settled snow depths in the surrounding terrain commonly range from 50–100 cm at village elevation and deeper at higher elevations, with good snow preservation due to consistently low temperatures and limited melt events.
Hemu’s ski season generally runs from early November through late March, with reliable early-season coverage compared to many continental regions. Open alpine slopes and extensive backcountry terrain can be reached directly from the village, giving plenty of touring routes to choose from. Both the resort and backcountry see little skier traffic, so it is easy to feel far from the crowds. Midwinter weather often brings settled periods suitable for touring.
Hemu is a small, remote village with Kazakh and Tuva cultural influences. You’ll see traditional wooden homes and livestock, and winter life moves at a slower pace than in more commercialised ski destinations. Staying here means spending time in a village as well as in the mountains.
02 / GETTING HERE
Hemu Village is about three hours by car from Burqin City and approximately five hours from Altay City and its airport. Altay Airport has direct winter flights to major Chinese cities, including Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou.
The most common route is to fly from a major Chinese city to Altay City Airport, then drive roughly five hours to Hemu Village. For example, China Southern flight CZ8995 leaves Beijing at 8:25 AM and arrives in Altay at 12:55 PM. After landing, most travellers eat in Altay before setting off around 2 PM and reaching Hemu around 7 PM Beijing Time. Xinjiang officially uses Beijing Time, although it lies roughly two time zones farther west. A 7 PM arrival therefore feels more like 5 PM locally, with plenty of daylight left.
Winter road access to Hemu is generally reliable between storms, though snowstorms can occasionally delay travel.
The ski resort is located about 20 minutes by car from Hemu Village. A local bus system also connects the village, service area, and resort. For backcountry skiing, access varies depending on the objective: some touring routes begin directly from the village, others start from nearby local-only settlements, and some require short drives (up to roughly 1–1.5 hours), often providing access to higher elevations.
Explore the area
03 / WHERE TO STAY
There are three main lodging styles in Hemu: traditional village wooden houses, newer “service area” hotels, and ski-in ski-out resort hotels.
In the village, some traditional wooden homes have been turned into guesthouses, together accommodating a few hundred visitors. You might see livestock in neighbouring yards or people passing on horseback. Rooms vary widely in size and comfort: small, basic rooms under 10 m² start around 700 RMB (~100 USD) per night, while larger, more comfortable rooms can exceed 2000 RMB (~300 USD) in non-holiday mid-season periods.
About a ten-minute walk from the old village is the “Service Area,” with a little more than ten newer hotels. They follow the village’s wooden-house style, with buildings grouped around courtyards. A concrete insulation layer inside the walls makes the rooms warmer and quieter, especially on days below −30°C. Mid-season prices are similar to village guesthouses, generally 700–2000 RMB (100–300 USD) per room.
Modern ski-in ski-out hotels sit next to the resort base, including Hilton, Holiday Inn and domestic brands. There are four at present, with more opening each year. They offer a more consistent level of comfort and service, similar to hotels at major ski resorts elsewhere. Prices are typically above 2000 RMB (~300 USD) per night in non-holiday mid-season.
04 / SEASONS & SNOW
Hemu changes through winter: opening days, quieter weeks on the slopes and in the village, then longer days for touring. When to come depends on what you want to do.
For an early taste of winter
Winter arrives early in the Altay Mountains, with the first snow sometimes falling in early October. With enough coverage, the resort’s opening days can offer good powder riding.
Higher backcountry routes stay colder, helping early snow remain dry and soft. With enough coverage, you can find powder here that you might have to wait until midseason for elsewhere.
For quiet slopes and village life
After opening week, the slopes and village become quieter. Cold temperatures help preserve the snow, and occasional storms bring fresh, dry powder. After skiing, there is time for a warm meal or a walk past the village’s wooden houses.
For a Christmas ski trip
Visitor numbers rise a little at Christmas, but it is not a national public holiday in China, so the rush is usually smaller. Prices can stay relatively reasonable outside the few days around New Year. With dry powder, manageable crowds and time in the village, Hemu can be good value for a Christmas ski trip.
For deep winter
Expect cold days, a more established snow base and dry snow that can stay soft between storms. Crowds can still be manageable outside Chinese New Year, even in the main ski season. The holiday dates change each year, so check them when planning your trip.
For longer days and ski touring
The village grows quieter after Chinese New Year. Temperatures become milder and the longer days leave more time to tour higher terrain and north-facing forests. Fresh powder is still possible. Each day’s route depends on snow, weather and avalanche conditions.
Hemu’s snow climate is best described as cold continental, defined by low temperatures, relatively infrequent storm cycles, and strong snow preservation. Winter temperatures commonly range between –10°C and –30°C from December through February, producing dry snowfall and slow snowpack settlement.
Storm cycles typically arrive every 2–4 weeks during midwinter, followed by extended periods of clear, stable weather. Unlike many mountain ranges that sit on exposed weather boundaries, Hemu lies within surrounding terrain that reduces wind exposure.
Hemu’s snow season starts earlier than at most resorts around the world, with the first snowfall in early October. Snow keeps well at higher elevations, and backcountry touring routes typically become viable in early November, one to two weeks before the resort opens.
The resort generally opens in mid-November, operating top-to-bottom (approximately 1,400 m to 2,800 m) from the start of the season. Early-season coverage is typically reliable, and snow quality is often at its best during this period, supported by cold temperatures and limited skier traffic.
Midwinter storms are infrequent but bring useful amounts of snow, often followed by long, clear high-pressure periods. Low temperatures keep the snow dry. Even when temperatures reach –30°C, sunshine and a lack of wind can make it feel more comfortable than the thermometer suggests.
North-facing forests preserve soft snow well through these periods, while the south-facing resort slopes offer enjoyable piste runs.
Snowfall can continue into March, with occasional larger storms still reaching the region. Lower elevations gradually get wetter snow, while slopes above 2,100 m, around the gondola mid-station, often keep dry snow through mid-March. The resort’s south-facing slopes are usually affected first.
Longer days and milder temperatures leave more time for touring higher alpine terrain and north-facing forests.
The resort operates until approximately mid-April, typically April 15, depending on snow conditions. In good snow years, spring skiing stays enjoyable until the scheduled closing date. In the worst snow years, the resort has closed on April 1.
05 / VILLAGE LIFE
There’s more to a stay in Hemu than time on skis. Take a horse-drawn sleigh ride, head out for a winter walk, or spend a few hours photographing the village’s wooden houses and surrounding snowy mountains. These are also good ways to enjoy a rest day or spend time with friends who don’t ski.
For a taste of local life, visit a local family’s home for a meal and try some of the region’s traditional dishes.
Or simply settle into a village café, warm up with a coffee, and watch village life go by. There’s no need to fill every day with an activity.
Hemu has many small restaurants serving Xinjiang food, as well as Sichuan, Cantonese and other regional Chinese cooking. There is plenty to try over a few days. There is even a KFC in the village.
06 / SKIING & TOURING
The mountains around Hemu are part of the Altay Range, with broad valleys, rounded alpine ridgelines and skiable terrain spreading out from the village. Many touring areas can be reached directly from Hemu or with a short approach, and the valleys and ridges make the terrain relatively easy to read.
LIFT ACCESS & SIDECOUNTRY
Explore Jikepulin resort, with terrain chosen around your ability and the day’s conditions. Sidecountry plans depend on conditions, local guidance and access.
North-facing slopes have birch and larch forests, with well-spaced trees for skiing and some shelter from the wind. These slopes often preserve snow well and provide reliable touring routes.
South-facing slopes are largely open alpine terrain, covered with grasses in summer and smooth, continuous snow surfaces in winter. Most resort runs are on these slopes. With forests on one side and open slopes on the other, there are different options for the day’s weather, visibility and snowpack conditions.
VERTICAL & GRADIENT
The resort offers approximately 1,400 meters of vertical drop, while typical touring runs around Hemu range from 300–800 meters of vertical per descent, depending on route selection and starting elevation. Slope angles in the surrounding terrain commonly fall within the 20–30° range, with steeper alpine features available in select areas.
07 / MOUNTAIN CONTEXT
Avalanche management inside the resort is active but limited in scope compared to major North American or European ski areas. During storms, the resort typically closes higher-elevation terrain above roughly 1850 meters and reopens zones gradually after conducting avalanche control work. Explosives are not introduced and the major way of avalanche control is ski cutting. As a result it can take two to three days after a storm cycle for the resort to fully reopen all terrain.
Outside the resort boundary, there is no formal avalanche forecasting service. However, local backcountry enthusiasts and guides conduct snowpack observations periodically and share avalanche reports and warnings within the community.
The local avalanche initiative is run by volunteers and local riders. Its information should not be presented as an official forecast or a substitute for qualified on-site assessment.
We regularly assess the conditions ourselves for the routes we offer.
A day in the mountains, with village life at either end.
The day begins with breakfast in Hemu and a look at the weather, snow conditions, and the group’s plans. Before heading out, there’s time to check equipment and discuss the route. Depending on the objective, touring may start close to the village or involve a drive to a different starting point.
With skins on, the pace settles into a steady climb. Around Hemu, the landscape ranges from forested slopes to open alpine terrain, giving each outing a different character. The route and pace depend on the conditions and the group, with time to pause, adjust layers, and take in the surrounding mountains.
Climbing, transitions, and descents shape the day, with breaks for food and a warm drink along the way. Some outings might focus on a single objective; others could link several shorter climbs and descents. How much ground to cover depends on the snowpack, visibility, available daylight, and how everyone is feeling.
Back in the village, there’s time to dry out equipment and settle into a slower pace. A hot meal, a stop at a café, or a quiet evening in a wooden guesthouse rounds out the day—with the mountains still close by.
STILLS & MOTION / HEMU
A closer look at the mountains
and life in the village.
Photographs and video to follow.
Photographs and video to follow.
Snowy village and valley